The historic city of Lucerne has been working with large numbers of tourists since the 1800s, and the result is a city that knows hospitality like no other. Hotels and restaurants are housed in centuries-old buildings, while local monuments and impressive structures have been garnering attentions for ages. Built on the picture-perfect shores of the lake by the same name, Lucerne is the foremost Swiss holiday destination.
Mark Twain paid a visit to Lucerne when the city was just getting its start as an international tourist destination, and quotes from his memoirs are still referenced today across town. Twain's comments regarding the Lion Monument have had the most lasting impression. The lion is a memorial to fallen soldiers erected in the city centre and has immortalised the sorrow and despair of defeat.
Other prominent sites in the city include the 14th-century Chapel Bridge, which burned to the ground at the hands of a careless smoker in the 1990s. The bridge was rebuilt and is true in every way to its predecessor. The local church is one of Switzerland's most impressive, while the city's world-class museums explore the arts and sciences.
But the attractions in Lucerne aren't contained just in the old town. A great selection of outdoor activities is available in the city. During the summer, visitors head to the lake for swimming and paddleboat rides, while the winter sees a shift to the ski slopes of neighbouring Alpine ski resorts. When the snows recede, the slopes transform into a playground for hikers and adventure-seeking mountain bikers.
Lucerne's dining districts are split among the historic streets of the old town and more expansive stretches of the lakefront. The selection of international options is always increasing though upscale, Swiss-Alpine fare is much more widespread. An expansive selection of hotels is available in the same districts, with an emphasis on upmarket establishments.
The local shopping infrastructure continues to grow as well. What began more than a century ago with street vendors selling handicrafts has grown into a thriving industry that spans traditional markets and modern department stores. Swiss watches, chocolates and designer fashions are especially popular with visitors.
There are several ways to arrive in Lucerne. Flights land at Zurich International Airport, which is close to the city and connected by roads and railways. Trains also arrive in Lucerne from other Swiss destinations, while international rail service routes through Zurich first. Since the city is offset some distance from the airport (30 to 60 minutes depending on the mode of transport), a hire car is a worthwhile investment.
Transportation within the city is straightforward. Lucerne's historic quarter is compact and walkable, so visitors have little need of transportation in the course of regular sightseeing. Taxis are on hand and connect as far away as the airport, while buses are the main means of getting around town. A cogwheel train climbs the peak to Mt Pilatus.
Lucerne is a beautiful and historic city with a range of structures that date from the 14th to 16th centuries. Lucerne Lake and the Reuss River are the delimiting features of the city, hemming in the old quarter with its iconic structures like Chapel Bridge, the Lion Monument, Weinmarkt Fountain and Hof Church. The city also hosts excellent cultural institutions like the Picasso Museum and the Swiss Transport Museum.
Lucerne's most iconic site, this covered bridge spans the Reuss River and dates to the 1300s. It is Europe's oldest wooden bridge and was originally built as a security measure to help guard the city. When it was built, the inside of the bridge was decorated with paintings that reflected life in the city over the previous two centuries, and these pictures remain today. The bridge recently burned down but was quickly restored.
Located at Lido Beach, this museum holds cars, motorcycles, aeroplanes and trains from the last 100 years. A highlight is the model railroad complete with a miniature working steam engine. The flight exhibit includes spacecraft and a space capsule from the Mercury project. The museum can be reached by bus or boat.
Time Life reporter, David Douglas Duncan, spent a great deal of time with Pablo Picasso and assembled an excellent portfolio of photographs representing the artist's life and work. Housed in building from the 1600s, this museum displays hundreds of photographs alongside drawings and ceramic pieces that the artist produced late in his career.
The lake is Lucerne's key attraction, with most of the city's attractions and restaurants situated on or near its banks. Locals and visitors come to the lake for a variety of outdoor activities, or for simple sightseeing tours. While Lucerne and the lake share the same name, several minor villages dot its shores. Tourists can board steam-powered paddle boats for tours of Lake Lucerne.
An iconic Lucerne attraction, the Lion Monument was commissioned in memory of the hundreds of Swiss soldiers who were killed by French forces in the late 18th century. Mark Twain was particularly moved by the monument, which features a lion in the throes of death, pierced by a spear. The sculpture was carved from a rock taken from a nearby cliff.
The actual 15th-century fountain that once stood here has been relocated to the History Museum and features seven medieval warriors, one of whom is St Mauritus. A perfect recreation of the fountain was built in place of the original and continues to embody the spirit of the city.
This Renaissance church is arguably the finest in Switzerland and is certainly the most important religious structure in Lucerne. As the old city has maintained its medieval character, the cathedral continues to dominate the skyline. A religious structure of some sort has stood here since the 700s, while the current structure has been heavily-restored and dates to the 1600s. Inside is an organ with a staggering 6,000 pipes, the largest of which measures 33 ft. Climb the 200-ft tower for excellent views over the city.
Lucerne's rivers, lake and mountainous terrain set the stage for outdoor activities throughout the year. The lake is busy during the summer with boaters, swimmers and sunbathers, while the focus shifts to the outlying ski resorts in the winter. The high ground on Mt Pilatus is ideal for adventure sports like paragliding, canyon crossing and bungee jumping. Tourists can visit the peak by cable car, train or on foot.
Ascending Mount Pilatus is a must for every visitor, and doing so affords excellent views over the Alps. It's possible to complete the climb on foot from the trailhead at Kriens (a nearby village). The cable car gets more use and also departs from Kriens. There are two changes along the way. Perhaps the most pleasant way to reach the peak is via the steepest cogwheel railway in the world. Trains depart south of Lucerne in Apnachstad village.
Visiting Lucerne during one of its annual festivals offers a rich overlay of cultural activities that make the experience all the more memorable. Carnival typically lasts three days (Sunday to Tuesday) and is highlighted by a chaotic parade with participants literally marching in every direction. Soon after is the Lucerne Festival, when classical music performances are held across the city. Two other music festivals, the International Festival of Music (September) and the Blue Balls Festival (July) are also well attended.
Lucerne is the perfect setting for every kind of cycling, which is a great way to travel between sites in the city. A favourite route follows a portion of the lake, heading out to other villages in the countryside. Mountain biking is also possible on Mount Pilatus and the surrounding hills. Outfitters in the city hire out road bikes, mountain bikes and also have options for children and tandem riders.
The Swiss Alps are world-renowned for their winter sport facilities, and there are several mountain resorts within reach of Lucerne. Meiringen and Engelberg are two of the closest and offer full facilities for skiers and snowboarders. Both operate a range of restaurants and lodges. The skiing season officially lasts from December to March, though slopes may still be in good condition in April.
When the weather warms up and the snow disappears from the slopes, hikers head to the area's ski resorts and strap on boots instead of skis and to explore the terrain. The lifts continue to operate from May to November, giving hikers the opportunity to ascend to various altitudes for shorter hiking excursions. Lucerne sporting outfitters can also provide intrepid hikers with equipment and guides for longer, more intense outings
Swimming in Lake Lucerne is possible during the summer though the waters are perennially chilled by mountain springs. Lido Beach is the best place for a refreshing swim. Anyone who finds the Alpine waters too brisk can make use of heated swimming pools in the larger hotels. These are better suited for lap swimming and are open year-round.
Tour operators capitalise on the region's varying altitude by offering a variety of adventure sports to get visitors' hearts pounding. Bungee jumping is the fastest avenue to an adrenaline rush, followed closely by zip-line rides across a local canyon. Paragliding is also possible and offers unrivalled views over the city, lake and outlying mountains.
Lucerne has everything the modern tourist desires when it comes to dining and shopping. International and local restaurants are well-represented, and a few traditional Swiss restaurants even include traditional music and staff dressed in traditional costumes. Shopping also spans modern and nostalgic offerings. Watches, clothing and chocolates are the biggest sellers in town.
The entire city is bustling with cafés and restaurants, especially on the banks of Lucerne Lake and along the Reuss River. In the Old Town, atmospheric restaurants are packed into pedestrian areas. This area is particularly upscale, though visitors will find that prices are high across the city when compared to other Swiss towns.
The high prices are a direct result of the local economy's reliance on tourism. But the focus on tourism also paves the way for classy and atmospheric environs with excellent views over the city's waterways. Competition for tourist attention has paved the way for a few idyllic restaurants.
Most of the restaurants specialise in a fusion of Swiss, German and Austrian cuisine, but there is also a selection of international eateries in Lucerne. Pizzerias, coffee shops and fast food restaurants are widespread away from the city centre. The left bank of the lake is particularly well-known for inexpensive, international fare from places like India, Thailand and Turkey.
Local cuisine includes specialities like alpine macaroni, which features apples, potatoes, local cheese in a sweet and fruity reduction. Another local recipe takes rye bread and fondue cheese and bakes it along with garlic, white wine and paprika to create something like a Swiss crostini. Local pastries are not to be missed, especially the lozärner chügelipastete, a puff-pastry filled with mushrooms and veal in a cream sauce.
In the past, Lucerne's shopping scene had a reputation for leaning toward the kitsch side. In fact, Mark Twain went on record in the mid-1800s complaining about the millions of ‘alpine crystals' and carvings he was confronted with during his visit. But today's visitors are greeted by a more comprehensive selection of goods ranging from traditional souvenirs to designer fashions.
The newer shopping area is found on the Pilatusstrasse, close to the Central Station. Fashionable boutiques and shops selling jewellery and accessories are the main attraction in this part of town. Bucherer and Bübelin, two of Switzerland's best-known watch and jewellery dealers, have Lucerne locations where visitors can peruse some of the finest handiwork the industry has to offer.
The shopping in the Old Town is more nostalgic and includes a vast collection of handicraft markets and gift shops. One of the most popular handicrafts is Swiss embroidery, widely available throughout the Old town. An open-air market convenes on the lakeshore every Tuesday and Saturday.
Clothing is another big seller in Lucerne, with various local and international designers represented. There are two large department stores with a range of boutiques and jewellers, EPA and Nordmann and Co.
Lucerne's restaurant scene is remarkably upscale and perfect for couples looking for a romantic getaway. Several of the best establishments are housed in centuries-old buildings and serve traditional Swiss-Alps fare. The international dining scene is also well-established. Menu prices are high, but the dining experience is world-class and worth the expense.
The Old Swiss House is a must for all visitors. This half-timbered house draws as many photographers as diners and it's filled with centuries-old antiques. Local cuisine is carefully presented so that even the Wiener schnitzel comes across as gourmet.
This stylish Italian restaurant is widely considered the best place to enjoy Mediterranean cuisine. The service is excellent and the wine list is a perfect complement to the carefully crafted dishes.
This decades-old Chinese restaurant was founded by the wife of a high-ranking officer in the Chinese Nationalist Party (the party that founded modern Taiwan). Dinners are fixed-price and feature fine Far East dishes.
Housed in a stylish, Art Deco building, Hofstube serves French-influenced Swiss cuisine. The atmosphere couldn't be better, with rustic touches that keep diners firmly rooted in this historic city.
Housed in the cellar of the town hall, Stadtkeller occupies a space that has been in use since the late 17th century. Regional cuisine is at the heart of the menu, and live folk music plays during lunch and dinner.
While it's slightly away from the town centre, this restaurant is worth the trip. It's kept in a house that is at least 400 years old, with a restaurant in operation since the early 19th century. The German-style beers are the perfect accompaniment to the hearty, Alpine fare.
Chic and upscale, this vegetarian restaurant draws on culinary traditions from around the world to craft its eclectic menu. It's a welcome for those who need a break from sausages and rich Swiss fare.
This restaurant is housed in one of the city's oldest buildings, which was built in the 14th century and has operated a restaurant from the 16th century onward. The décor takes its cues from every intermediate age, while the menu is decidedly modern but just as eclectic.
This restaurant dates to the early 16th century and continues to be one of Lucerne's most romantic establishments. Fixed-price flights from four to six courses are available, giving diners a taste of old-world Switzerland's finest cuisine.
Perfect for fondue lovers, the Fondue House is tucked into a side street in the historic quarter. The restaurant would be hard to find if it weren't for the amazing aroma that surrounds it.
Passengers arriving by air will land at the international airport in Zurich, a modern airport with comprehensive facilities. Onward transportation to Lucerne consists primarily of buses and trains. Within the city, buses and taxis are the primary mode of public transportation, though the paddleboats on Lake Lucerne can access coastal villages during the summer. A hire car is a convenience for travelling between Lucerne and the airport and can also be used to visit the peak of Mt Pilatus.
The closest airport to Lucerne is Zurich International, a two-terminal facility with a long list of carriers serving major cities across Europe. Limited flights to destinations farther afield are also offered. In all, Zurich International Airport serves 20 million passengers every year, many of whom are business passengers. Onsite airlines include British Airways, Air France, Continental Airliens, Lufthansa, United Airlines and Emirates Air.
The airport is equipped with the entire gamut of traveller amenities, beginning with post, banking and exchange services and going on to include numerous restaurants, bars and shopping facilities. Given Zurich's status as a hub of business and finance, the airport hosts comprehensive business and conference facilities as well.
Transportation from Zurich's airport to the city centre can be accomplished in several ways. A train runs directly to the city (30 minutes), departing several times a day from Terminal B. Bus 11 also connects to Lucerne, though there are several stops along the way. Taxis are available but understandably expensive given the distance, making a hire car a more economical option.
Driving to and from Zurich Airport is straightforward. The A20 departs the airport, links up with the A1 and ultimately leads to the A14 which accesses Lucerne. Parking options at the airport span three covered short-term lots and a remote long-term lot which is connected to the terminals by a free shuttle bus.
Switzerland boasts excellent rail infrastructure, and travel by train is a favourite means of reaching Lucerne, a city that sits at a major Swiss railway junction. Direct service is available from Berne, Olten and Zurich, with the latter offering more frequent departures. Travelling by train from other countries in Europe is also possible, though train changes are inevitable in the increasingly mountainous terrain.
Travel by bus is the most affordable means of getting around, and long-haul Eurolines coaches are spacious and comfortable. Buses arriving from elsewhere on the continent are routed through Zurich before connecting to Lucerne. It's also possible to drive to Lucerne from practically any city in Europe.
Buses also form the backbone of public transportation in Lucerne. They cover the entire city with a network of fixed routes, and tickets are available from automated machines near major bus stops. Tourists are a major contingent of the passengers, so short-term passes are available in one-, three- and seven- day increments. Taxis are the fastest means of point-to-point transit.
Steam paddleboats ply the waters of Lake Lucerne during the summer months and connect Lucerne's Bahhofquai Pier with villages along the shores of the lake. This doubles as an excellent way to see the sights.
| ALPINA | 31EUR |
| AMBASSADOR | 27EUR |
| ASTORIA | 220EUR |
| CONTINENTAL PARK | 66EUR |
| DE LA PAIX | 28EUR |
| DES BALANCES | 48EUR |
| DREI KONIGE | 26EUR |
| EXPRESS BY HOLIDAY INN LUZERN- | 15EUR |
| Flora | 31EUR |
| GRAND EUROPE | 49EUR |
| Grand National | 68EUR |
| KRONE | 47EUR |
| LUZERNERHOF | 116EUR |
| MAGIC | 31EUR |
| MONOPOL | 35EUR |
| Montana | 63EUR |
| NH | 108EUR |
| Palace | 76EUR |
| RENAISSANCE LUCERNE HOTEL | 27EUR |
| Romantik Wilden Mann | 55EUR |
| ROTHAUS | 43EUR |
| SCHILLER | 220EUR |
| SCHWEIZERHOF | 89EUR |
| SCHWEIZERHOF (LAKE VIEW) | 311EUR |
| SEEBURG | 34EUR |
| STEGHOF | 120EUR |
| THE HOTEL | 342EUR |
| THE JAILHOTEL | 21EUR |
| Waldstaetterhof | 27EUR |