Overview

If you really want to drag yourself off the sand for a few hours, there are plenty of cultural things to see around Goa. The capital Panjim has some lovely old neigbourhoods and remnants of the colonial Portuguese era. Fort Aguada is a great spot for sunsets and the famous Anjuna Flea Market is full of creativity. Goa's advantage is that it has both beautiful beaches and a unique Goan culture still hanging on.

Anjuna Flea Market

The mother of all Goan markets is the original hippie hangout where lingering backpackers once came to sell whatever they had to carry on living in their utopian paradise. Anjuna is much more commercial now than in the 1960s, but it is still a fantastic place to explore. Traders from all over India come here each Wednesday selling unique handicrafts from their regions, and the street entertainment alone is worth a visit.

Old Goa

Before the capital of Goa moved to Panjim, this UNESCO World Heritage site was the epitome of opulent seaside living created by the Portuguese. Old Goa was abandoned in the 17th century, but one can still wander its streets and admire the extravagant churches and convents that remain remarkably well preserved. Highlights include the Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Church of St Cajetan, and Arch of the Viceroys.

Fort Aguada

This remnant of the Portuguese colonial era is one of the nicest forts around Goa. It sits on a dramatic headland overlooking the Mandovi River, with its bastion the main structural point of interest. But really, people visit the fort to watch the sunset and admire the sweeping ocean views to the south and north.

Chapora

A nice alternative to the over-hype of Goa is this fascinating fishing village that seems to have decided not to get caught up in the Goan tourist explosion. The village sits along the estuary of the Chapora River and has a wonderfully-preserved Portuguese fortress on the hill overlooking it. There are a few resorts here to help you enjoy another side to Goan lifestyle in more detail.

Panjim

Goa's state capital is usually just a transit point for the beach, but there's a lot to see and do in this interesting little city. Panjim has retained much of its Portuguese heritage, and has a pleasantly cluttered feel. You may feel more like you're on the Mediterranean than southern India, but the old Fontainhas district has a charm you just don't find along the beaches.

Braganza House

To experience the full opulence of the Portuguese colonial era, visit Braganza House, the finest colonial mansion in Chandor. This impressive building, which dates to the 17th century, takes up an entire side of Chandor's village plaza. Visitors can wander the interior filled with period furniture and perfectly-preserved facades and décor.

Om Beach

Widely touted as India's most beautiful beach, Om Beach gets its name from the black rocks that divide the white sandy beach into three small coves that are interconnected and create the sacred Sanskrit symbol ‘om.' That natural arrangement is cool in itself, but the beach really is something special and makes a great daytrip from Goa. There are even a few resorts here to let you linger and meditate on the meaning of ‘om.'

Water sports

The best place to find modern watersports is around the upscale resorts. Visitors can rent jet skis, go parasailing, wakeboarding, windsurfing and even scuba dive. There are a couple of companies that specialise in this niche, such as Atlantis Water Sports and Thunderwave. Sailing is also a great way to spend the day, although it's the most expensive water activity on offer.

Overview

If you consider partying an outdoor recreation activity, then Goa will provide enough exercise for an entire lifetime. There are also kilometres of beautiful beaches up and down the coast from Goa where you can swim, enjoy a range of water sports, or just lounge on the sand. Scuba diving is also available around Grande Island, and the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary is a great place to immerse yourself in the natural side of Goa.

Beaches

The beaches around Goa are what really draw the tourists, many of whom never return home. They are deservedly considered some of the finest beaches in the world, but Goa's popularity means you need to travel a little farther down the coast for the really sublime sand. Thankfully, there are literally dozens of different beaches along the Goan coastline.

For social action you can't beat the Baga-to-Candolim strip of beach. Just north of Baga, is the rave headquarters of Anjuna and its legendary parties. Continuing north, you can enjoy Asvem Beach and Arambol, both of which are just outside the sphere of package tourism.

The southern beaches are mainly the domain of five-star resorts, but the beaches are still public. Palolem is arguably the best beach in Goa, despite the presence of the InterContinental. Agonda Beach is even more secluded and quiet, as is Galgibaba. Head an hour south and you can experience the famous Om Beach.

Scuba diving

Goa isn't known as scuba diving destination, but underwater fans can still get a dose of coral reefs, tropical fish and shipwrecks off the coast. Most of the local diving happens around Grande Island, where the dive sites are between 12 and 16 metres deep. The marine life here is rich and abundant, living among both soft and hard coral gardens. The diving season runs from October until May, when visibility can reach up to 30 metres in ideal conditions. Dive companies can be found at the Goa Marriott Resort or through Atlantis Water Sports.

Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary

India's most famous ornithologist has his name on this lovely little wetland preservation that seeks to protect the birds that thrive among the mangroves. The diversity of birdlife here is extraordinary, featuring stars like purple herons alongside colourful kingfishers and mynahs. Visitors can take a boat to the observation tower to get the best perspective. Early mornings and dusk are the best times to see the birds in action.

Partying

Goa is legendary for its party scene, which consists of everything from drinking at the ubiquitous beach shacks to full-on rave parties that attract hundreds of revellers during the winter season. There is also a range of dedicated nightclubs if you prefer more structure in your night out. The party happens every night of the year in Goa, but the hot venues continually change so ask around to find out where to spend your night.

Dining and shopping

The typical diet of Goans is rice and fish curry served alongside fried fish and pickles. These curries are ubiquitous and can be found at every beach side shack on the coast. Goan cuisine blends south Indian and Portuguese flavours and ingredients to create a rather unique variation of Indian food.

Local specialties like prawn balchao (a slightly sweet shrimp preserve using coconut feni and local spices) and kingfish fried in garlic definitely have a distinctive Portuguese edge. The classic Indian dishes of vindaloo and xacuti (a coconut-based masala), found on menus all over the world, originated in Goa.

Baboti (a spicy sweet ground-beef concoction) is another favourite found everywhere. It you're feeling really adventurous try the sorpotel, a traditionally very spicy stew of pork, red chillies, feni, spices and vinegar. For dessert try bebinca, a rich layered sweet loaded with eggs and coconut milk.

For drinks, you can't beat locally created feni, a deceptively light-tasting alcohol distilled from coconut or cashew fruit. Be wary of this one. Sol kadi is a good beverage as it is both thirst-quenching and good for the digestion.

There are so many places to eat in Goa it can be overwhelming. The daring can check out one of the many udipi vegetarian dining halls in Panjim. If you aren't afraid of getting your hands dirty, this is the ultimate local eating experience.

The other mainstay of Goa dining is the beach shack, found mainly to the north of Panjim. These humble outdoor-style abodes sit right on the beach and feature simple barbecued seafood and the full range of predictable Indian and Western dishes. They are casual, affordable and often great fun. Ask around to find which one is cooking best this year, as there are around 200 between Baga and Candolim alone.

Most resorts of all size or quality have an in-house restaurant, and there are several good restaurants along the road between Baga Creek and Arpora Hill as it heads inland. To the south of Panjim, there are still plenty of beach shacks but there are also some more upscale options. The posh resorts all have excellent dining, and there are a handful of creative and affordable cafés along the beach.

Goa has long been a trading centre for South Asia, and not much has really changed except the customers and the merchandise. The local craftsmen are talented at gold work, hand-painted ceramics, and decorative items made from coconut, bamboo, shells, wood and clay. Antiques are another decent buy in the markets of Goa.

The special outdoor markets like Anjuna's Wednesday Market show off Goa at its best (or worst, depending on your view). Everything under the sun is sold at this famous venue that has been selling odd stuff by foreign hippies and Indians alike since at least the 1960s. But it's a marvellous place to meet traders from all parts of India, who come to Anjuna to make some cash. The regional handicrafts are quite impressive.

On the weekend, the funky Saturday Night Bazaars (Ingoe's and Mackie's) bring food, alcohol, music and funky handicrafts and knickknacks together in a colourful mosaic of commerce and consumption. For something more traditional try the Friday Market in Mapusa, where locals come down to sell food and other local goodies.

The Apparent network of Goa handicraft outlets is run by the state but it's a good place to go shopping for local products. There are 10 outlets and the prices are good. Other fun places to shop include the night markets of North Goa, the 18th June Road in Panjim, and the goldsmiths around Mapusa's market.

Goa is best known for having a huge quantity of cheap places to eat that all serve basically the same menu but most cook pretty well and the price is right. If you can deal with this level of casual dining, you'll do quite well in Goa and thoroughly enjoy eating curries on the sand. But there are a few high-style standouts that can provide a more creative and sophisticated meal if you want to indulge.

Overview

Goa is easily reached by plane, train or bus. The local airport (Dabolim) has daily flights from several major Indian cities, and the train is near three different rail lines. Buses also provide cheap and easy transport from every major Indian town. In Goa, you can rent a scooter for the maximum flexibility and fun. Otherwise, motorcycle taxis and autorickshaws are helpful to get around.

Airports

If you fly in by air you will land at Goa's capital, Panjim, which is centrally located in the state. Its airport, Dabolim Airport, is located 29kms south of the capital. Several regional airlines provide regular service to Goa from all around India, and there is a thriving charter air industry that brings in constant flights from destinations in the UK, Germany, Holland, Scandinavia and Switzerland. Just be aware that if you arrive on a charter flight you must depart on one.

During the peak winter season even more global airlines jump into the mix, providing flights with Sri Lankan Airlines, for example. But most of the year-round air travel is handled by budget carriers like Jet Airways, Kingfisher, SpiceJet and Indian Airlines from destinations across India. Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, and Chennai are the most popular routes.

The terminal's Arrivals area has a very useful government tourist desk if you want some direction or advise. If you have pre-booked a room at a one of the hotels or resorts, chances are they will provide an airport pickup. If not, you'll need to hire a prepaid taxi or get into negotiations with a private taxi driver. The yellow prepaid taxi booth is a better choice, and is located to the left as you exit the terminal.

Public transportation

The train is a popular way to get to Goa, as the town is close to three different train routes: Thivim to the north, Madgaon and Karmali to the south. Several trains leave every day from Mumbai to Goa on the Konkan Railway line. The journey lasts from 10 to 13 hours, so the overnight Konkan Kanya Express is a good choice for a bit of sleep. If you're coming from the south, the Matsyaganda Express from Mangalore is a wonderfully scenic trip.

If you want something even cheaper, there are plenty of buses running from every corner of India to Goa. Buses from Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore, Mangalore and Hyderabad are the most convenient. Definitely go for the air-conditioned class of bus. Be aware that overnighter buses with a sleeper bunk may get you a bunkmate not of your choosing.

Around Goa, the best way to get around is hire a scooter by the day (or week, if you decide to linger). It's extremely easy to rent a scooter, but in Goa it's advisable to only rent one if all the paperwork, insurance and the like can be produced. There are a lot of shifty bike rental guys in Goa, and you'll have to pay if they aren't properly registered.

Another way to get between parts of Goa is by motorcycle taxi. They are a fun and convenient way to get about. The buses are useful and virtually free, but often crowded and slow. Autorickshaws are another choice if you prefer this style of transport. Be sure and bargain hard for your fair fare. Goa is also an easy place to rent a car, just be sure about the paperwork and insurance.