Wedged between the Mediterranean coastline and the rolling countryside of Provence, Marseille is as modern as it is rustic. Shoppers and diners will find a dizzying array of venues, while lovers of art and culture can peruse historic, cobbled avenues holding grand architecture and world-class museums. The local public transportation system has set new precedents, enabling hassle-free travel between the city's districts.
Marseille's architectural roots date to the pre-Christian era, with many of the churches standing over the site of former temples or even enveloping them. The Vieille Major Cathedral, known for its nearly pink stone façade, was built on top of an ancient Roman temple to Diana.
Along the same lines, the Basilica St Victor was built in many stages over an ancient crypt that dates to the city's earliest Christian community. The most prominent church in town, the Notre Dame de la Garde, is substantially younger and looms over the Vieux Port.
The city also boasts numerous museums and art galleries. The Grobet Ladadié Museum is one of the finest, though there a dozen more worth visiting. Other attractions include the Chateau d'If, known as a setting in the novel Count of Monte Cristo, and Palais du Pharo with its well-preserved interior.
Near the city is a fantastic outdoor arena. The ribbed gorges of the Calanques were formed millions of years ago and host a stunning natural environment. Whether bird-watching, hiking or scuba diving, this is an ideal setting. The Calanques can be reached by ferry or by an upper road. For those that prefer spectator sports to nature-based activities, the local football team is one of France's best.
Marseille's shopping scene is world class though it sometimes gets eclipsed by the popularity of Paris and Lyon. Seafood is the local speciality, especially bouillabaisse (fish soup), which is served in restaurants along the Vieux Port. This is also where you'll find Marseille's hotels, ranging from charming boutique establishments to well-known international brands.
Marseille Provence Airport is the most likely gate of entry for international passengers. The airport is busy year-round and ushers five million passengers through its gates annually. The train is the other major mode of transport, with express buses to Nice and Paris taking two and three hours respectively. Ferries connect to the North African coast and to islands in the Mediterranean.
The public transportation infrastructure within the city is modern and efficient, benefiting from a world-class system that synchronises the metro and bus networks to minimise waiting times at the station. Both networks use the same ticketing system. Taxis are also available for quick, point-to-point transport, while a hire car is better for excursions into the Provençal countryside.
Marseille's attractions are focused on the Vieux Port, where visitors will find the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, an impressive building that epitomises the Romanesque-Byzantine style that moved architects in the 1800s. The city also boasts countless art galleries and more than a dozen excellent museums. A palace and a castle sit on the periphery of the old city, while the Calanques gorges sit between Marseille and Cassis.
The model boats hanging outside of this 19th century church (with 13th century roots) are a tribute to the fishermen who used to bring their ships to the city to have them blessed. The building itself is done in Romanesque-Byzantine style that culminates in a 30-foot statue of the Madonna. Come in the evening to enjoy the sun setting over the harbour.
Construction on this church began long ago in the 400s AD. Ramparts were added nearly 1,000 years later, and now the basilica borderlines on being a fort. The highlight is underneath the main building, where a 5th century crypt is kept. Portions of the crypt were expanded in the 1000s. A few times a year, classical music is performed in the crypts.
This is the focal point of the old city, permeated by historic architecture but still serving modern seafarers. The port itself is protected by ancient fortifications and overlooked by the Notre Dame Basilica. Behind the port is a maze of medieval alleyways winding uphill. Vieux Port boasts the city's best selection of restaurants, bars and discos.
This castle is situated on the island of If, located minutes offshore from Marseille. It was built in the 1500s and became famous as a setting in the book, Count of Monte Cristo. It's open for tours, and from its highest vantage points visitors get a great view of the coast as well as the sea. Ferries bound for the island depart from the Vieux Port on a regular basis.
Overlooking the Chateau d'If, the Palais du Pharo was built in the 1800s under the patronage of Napoleon III. From the outside, visitors can enjoy sweeping views of the port and coastline while perusing the palace gardens. The palace is open for tours, giving visitors the chance to appreciate the antiques and period furnishings that are maintained inside.
Marseille's foremost natural attraction, the Calanques is a series of fluted gorges that span the coastline. The above water portion is a haven for birdwatchers, while the submerged portion is a favourite scuba diving destination. The best way to reach the Calanques is by boat from the harbour, though the road to Cassis accesses the upper stretches of the scenic area.
This Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral, with its mosaic tiled floors and domes that are reminiscent of those found in Turkey, was one of the largest churches built in 19th century Europe. Portions of the cathedral are very old, dating to the days when it was a Roman Temple to Diana. The façade is built from stones that radiate subtle pink hues.
Marseille boasts more than 70 art galleries and 15 museums, the latter of which entry is included with a three-day City Pass. The Grobet Ladadié Museum boasts fine art from every major period, most of which was collected in the early 20th century. Highlights include a collection of Gobelin tapestries, hundreds of years' worth of paintings from across the continent and regal furnishings that once belonged to Louis XV.
Marseille is a well-rounded travel destination with a range of activities awaiting tourists. Given its position on the Mediterranean, it comes as no surprise that sailing is embraced by locals and tourists alike. There may not be as many sandy beaches as visitors expect, but Marseille more than makes up for this with its rugged Calanque coastline, which draws bird watchers, scuba divers and hikers. The city also hosts one of France's most competitive football teams, and matches regularly sell out.
Marseille may not be particularly well known for its beaches, but there are still a few places where tourists can go for a swim. Borély Park has beach access, though it's more popular as a place to watch the sunset than to go swimming. The best stretch of coastline is found between the harbours of La Madrague and La Pointe Rouge. The waters here are clean and calm year-round, regardless of the weather.
There are excellent hiking trails available in the Calanques. Hikers can join guided treks or can set out on their own to enjoy the scenery. Along the way are beautiful hideaways with fantastic views of the coastline and distant horizon. Maps are available from tour agencies and sporting outfitters alike in Marseille, but the actual network of trails is clearly marked so visitors are unlikely to get lost.
There are several ways to get out and enjoy the sea while visiting Marseille. One of the most popular sightseeing cruises departs from the Vieux Port and heads for the Calanques coastline on a four-hour return excursion. It's also possible to visit the islands of If and Frioul, both of which can be reached in very little time from the mainland.
Scuba diving excursions are offered offshore around the islands that flank Marseille, but the more popular place for diving and snorkelling is along the Calanques coast. Creeks rushing into the sea here have carved out a remarkable fluted landscape over millions of years, with the pattern extending underwater and hosting a brilliant variety of marine life. Those who haven't been certified can enrol in quick PADI courses through the city's dive shops.
Fans of the sport don't have to leave their obsession behind while visiting Marseille. The city is home to Olympique Marseille, the only team in France to ever win the Champions League (1993). Stade Velodrome seats 60,000 spectators but fills up quickly with diehard fans from across the countryside. Anyone hoping to catch a game while on holiday is advised to buy their tickets well in advance.
Marseille offers an excellent range of dining and shopping options, with plenty of fashionable French establishments on hand. Visitors with upmarket tastes have the greatest variety of options, though those on a budget are also accommodated. A thriving expatriate community from Northern Africa has added new dimensions to the dining and fashion scenes.
Marseille is a proud provincial capital so the most enthusiastic dining is French to the core. Regional dishes are prepared with local ingredients and proudly touted in upmarket restaurants where the chefs use recipes that are generations old. But that isn't to say that the city's dining scene is homogenous. There are countless ethnic eateries-many of which are inexpensive-along with market food stalls.
Many of the best restaurants are operated in conjunction with five-star hotels along the Mediterranean. The Vieux Port is a popular dining district, home to more independent operations, a few of which have been open for decades. The Plage du Prado is the most exclusive dining district. For a less expensive bite to eat, consider the restaurants along Rue Pavillion, Cours Belsunce, Place Jean-Jaures and Le Panier.
The headlining dish in Marseille is bouillabaisse. It's a saffron-infused seafood soup that has as many subtle variations as there are chefs to prepare it. This acclaimed dish takes hours to prepare, with the name derived from boui (boil) and abaisse (reduce). Ratatouille is another popular stew-type dish in this part of France.
North African cuisine is popular in the ethnic dining districts, especially Tunisian fare. Mechoui is a wonderful North African dish that features lamb or sometimes chicken and a medley of vegetables. Kebabs are widely available from street vendors.
Marseille boasts one of the country's strongest shopping reputations, which is saying a great deal considering the worldwide appeal of Lyon and Paris. A shopping tour starts in the many boutiques of the Vieux Port but then extends to include avenues and department stores found away from the city centre.
L'Escale Borély, near the park by the same name, is the city's most modern shopping centre. This area has gotten a lot of attention in recent years in local circles, and it's the best place to find upscale merchandise and international brands. L'Escale Borély also hosts a range of restaurants and cafés that are perfect for people watching.
The greatest concentration of fashion boutiques are located on Cours Julien, where local designers are carving out a unique niche in the French fashion scene. There's an uncanny North African influence at work, adding layers of originality to the clothing found here.
Handicrafts make the best souvenirs, and it's possible to pick up a range of well-made items while on holiday in Marseille. Rue St-Féréol hosts a range of outlets dealing mainly in souvenirs and folk art. Crèche figurines (called santons) are hand-carved from wood and are particularly popular. To collectors' delight, there are literally hundreds of unique santons available in Marseille.
Marseille has an excellent selection of restaurants lining the Vieux Port. Seafood, bouillabaisse and Provençal cuisine are favourites wherever you dine. Prices are high in the long-standing establishments, but the experience is certainly worth the expense. But thrifty diners will have no trouble finding an affordable bite to eat, with a range of unpretentious, local restaurants offset from the port as well as a selection of international (especially Tunisian) restaurants with authentic cuisine and low prices.
This restaurant is housed in a 19th century building overlooking the Vieux Port. The owners showcase regional French dishes that are enhanced with modern, creative touches.
This famous restaurant has been hosting international movie stars for decades at its waterfront location at Port du Vallon (east of Vieux Port). Regional French cuisine is the speciality here, served in sets as part of a fixed-price menu.
Le Massena is a great place to sample local seafood in a casual and inexpensive environment. The building commands a fine view over the fountain on Castellane Square.
Les Arcenaulx is one of the best places to sample authentic Provençal cuisine, and unlike many of the area's most prominent restaurants, this one specialises in more than just seafood. The restaurant is housed in part of a complex of warehouses that were built when Louis XIV was on the throne.
Chez Angèle is one of the best places to enjoy an inexpensive meal in Marseille. The environment is unpretentious and the menu offers a variety of Provençal specials along with a few creative pizzas.
There are nearly a dozen preparations for couscous in this authentic Tunisian restaurant. La Kahena has been in operation for three decades and commands a strong following among Tunisian expatriates.
Purely a place to eat shellfish, Toinou offers nearly 50 different varieties on any given day. The fixed-price menu is essentially a shellfish platter that takes diners on a tour of the restaurant's offerings. Toinou also boasts an excellent wine list that features French whites.
This restaurant has a long tradition (nearly 70 years) of seaside dining, and guests are treated to some of the city's best bouillabaisse. The soup comes in two forms: one features several fresh fish, and the other features lobster.
Another well-established bouillabaisse restaurant, Michel-Brasserie is located between Vieux Port and Pharo Park. Guests who would rather try something other than bouillabaisse will find a variety of excellent seafood options on the menu.
Upscale and refined, Le Miramar offers one of the finest dining experiences in the city. Bouillabaisse is the speciality here and is so ubiquitous that the fish are even poached in it. The view from the dining room takes in the Notre Dame Basilica and Vieux Port.
Most visitors to Marseille arrive either by air via Marseille Provence Airport or by rail via St-Charles Railway Station. Coaches are more useful when it comes to travelling to and from remote cities in the countryside. The city itself boasts a well-integrated bus and metro system with synchronised arrivals and departures as well as a mutual ticketing system.
Marseille Provence Airport is an important regional hub for France, with connections to more than 80 cities across the world. An annual throughput of five million passengers is routed through this single-terminal facility. International flights land and depart from Hall 1. Airlines serving this airport include British Airways, Ryanair, Alitalia, Air France, easyJet and Lufthansa.
A second terminal is under construction, with hopes of expanding the airport's capacity. Facilities are comprehensive and include a range of restaurants, bars and cafés, ATMs, a post office, currency exchange facilities, gift shops, duty-free outlets and a business centre.
Transportation from the airport to the city centre can be accomplished in several ways. Buses from the Departures Hall depart for the city centre three times per hour. Shuttle buses bound for Marseille St-Charles Train Station depart just as often. Shuttle buses can also be arranged for guests of many of the area's nicer hotels, though services like this must be arranged in advance. Taxis are also on hand for transportation across the city.
Anyone driving to the airport can take advantage of the facility's nine car parks. Short-term parking is available close to the Arrivals Hall area. Mid-term parking is possible in the P5 car park, which is near halls 3 and 4, while long-term parking is relegated to P1, P2, P6 and P7.
The St-Charles Railway Station is the city's other primary gate of entry. The station offers regular service to provincial capitals across the country. The express routes with the most traffic head to Paris (3 hours) and Nice (2 hours). Trains are also on hand for travel along the Côte d'Azur.
Buses aren't as popular as trains as they're slower and less comfortable, but they're cheaper and useful for connecting to out-of-the-way destinations in the countryside. Long-haul coaches depart from the Routiere Station, and Eurolines conducts most of the traffic. Direct service is available from cities as far away as Barcelona, Tangier and Prague.
Ferries also provide service to Marseille, making use of the city's excellent harbour. The passenger terminals are located at the terminus of Boulevard des Dames (for connections to the North African coast) and at Place de la Joliette (for service to outlying islands). Regular service runs to Algiers, Corsica, Sardinia and Tunis.
An efficient metro system makes transportation across the city centre painless. Service operates on two lines, accesses all of the major districts and shares a ticketing system with the city bus system. Metros stop service from 21:00 to 05:00.
Buses originate from the same terminal as long-haul coaches (Routiere Station) and cover an extensive network across the city. Buses are timed to coincide with metro arrivals and departures to maximise efficiency. Visitors can purchase day and week passes that can be used onboard metros and buses.
Taxis are widely available and provide the fastest transportation. A hire car is also a wise investment for anyone planning daytrips to the Calanques or elsewhere in the countryside. Several car hire firms are represented at the airport.
| ADAGIO MARSEILLE REPUBLIQUE | 22EUR |
| BEST WESTERN LA JOLIETTE | 187EUR |
| Best Western Marseille Aeroport | 16EUR |
| CAMPANILE - MARSEILLE - LA PEN | 11EUR |
| CAMPANILE - SAINT ANTOINE | 12EUR |
| Escale Oceania | 18EUR |
| HIPARK | 14EUR |
| HOLIDAY INN | 14EUR |
| HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS | 14EUR |
| KYRIAD - MARSEILLE RABATAU | 12EUR |
| MERCURE BEAUVAU | 26EUR |
| MERCURE MARSEILLE CENTRE | 17EUR |
| MERCURE PRADO | 18EUR |
| NEW BOMPARD | 18EUR |
| NEW MARSEILLE | 26EUR |
| NEW SELECT | 13EUR |
| NEW VIEUX PORT | 19EUR |
| NOVOTEL AÉROPORT PORTE DE MARS | 107EUR |
| NOVOTEL MARSEILLE EST | 90EUR |
| PULLMAN MARSEILLE PALM BEACH | 27EUR |
| PULLMAN MARSEILLE PROVENCE | 20EUR |
| RESIDHOTEL LE GRAND PRADO | 15EUR |
| SOFITEL VIEUX PORT | 44EUR |
| SUITE NOVOTEL MARSEILLE CENTRE | 23EUR |
| Villa Massalia | 22EUR |