DizzyGoat.com - Homepage
France

Lyon travel guide - France

Lyon travel guide

Lyon, the second city of France and the heart of the Rhone-Alps region, is a hidden jewel among France's tourist destinations and has something to offer everyone. Traditionally a gateway to the south of France and skiing holidays in the Alps, Lyon was once known as the 'silk capital of the world' but today enjoys a reputation as the centre of French gastronomy and has become a fascinating holiday destination in its own right.

Nestled alongside the rivers Rhone and Saone and in the shadow of the imposing Fourviere Hill, Lyon offers typical French café society, unsurprisingly fantastic wines and some of the best dining in the world. Its culture is a blend of northern French and Latin influences belying its Roman occupation history, and in 1998 Lyon became one of the few urban conurbations to be awarded UNESCO World Heritage site status.

Lyon's Roman heritage is evident today in the ruins found on the sides of Fourviere Hill, where scraps of the old Roman city still decorate the hillside. Under the Romans, Lyon was known as Lugdunum, meaning 'city of light', and each evening over 100 city sights are lit up to show off Lyon's spectacular architecture.

The city's old town, Vieux Lyon, is a stunning location and best appreciated by taking a walk around the area. Vieux Lyon is home to the greatest collection of Renaissance period architecture in all of France, born out of the city's silk industry boom in the 15th century. A stroll through the old town takes in the many traboules, covered passageways built during the Renaissance and later used as escape passages by French Resistance fighters during WWII.

Lyon is renowned as the gastronomic centre of France, which in a country as passionate about its food as the French are, is some achievement. The city boasts some frankly wonderful restaurants, from luxurious Michelin starred venues to many traditional bouchons, simple café-style establishments offering authentic regional Rhone-Alps fare, and there really is something to suit every palate and budget. The region is also home to some of the finest wines in France, with the vineyards of the Rhone-Alps giving birth to crisp whites, rich reds and of course, its annual crop of young and fruity Beaujolais Nouveau.

For shopping enthusiasts, Lyon offers boutiques and department stores the equal of any city in Europe. Designer labels abound in chic individual outlets and the area of Presqu'ile is home to Printemps and Galaries Lafayette stores. For those of a more active mind, Lyon offers access to many outdoor pursuits, not least skiing on the fantastic slopes of the Alps, just a short drive away.

Travelling by air is the easiest and most convenient means of reaching Lyon, but the city is also easily accessible by France's excellent rail network. Lyon's Saint Exupery International Airport services flights from all over Europe and also transatlantic flights. High-speed TGV trains connect Lyon to all other major French cities as well as Geneva and Brussels and the Eurostar service links Lyon to London.

Bookmark and Share

Sightseeing

Overview

The Vieux Lyon old town is the centre of tourism in Lyon and it is easy to lose oneself wandering about and taking in the area's attractive architecture and laid-back feel. Lyon is a fine city to see on foot but there is more to find than just buildings, with Lyon's cultural history on show in its museums and churches and fine gastronomy experiences to be had all over.

Fine Arts Museum (Musee des Beaux Arts)

The Fine Arts Museum is home to works by Picasso, Braque and Bonnard and boasts one of France's finest collections of 19th century art and indeed is a work of art in itself, housed as it is in a former Benedictine Abbey. Beautiful examples of sculpture and decorative art make this museum a splendid detour.

Basilisque de Notre Dame de Fourviere

Sitting proudly atop Fourviere Hill and reminiscent of the famous Basilisque Sacre Coeur in Paris, Notre Dame de Fourviere is Lyon's most breathtaking sight and is visible from all over the city. The 'upside-down elephant' is an immaculate example of Byzantine-era architecture and boasts stunning gilt, marble and mosaics adorning its interior. For a panoramic view of Lyon, climb the 287 steps to the Basilisque's observatory or for a more leisurely stroll, take in the pleasant, Bossan-designed Jardins de Rosaire next door.

Gallo-Roman Amphitheatre

Lyon was once a part of the Roman Empire, and evidence of that time can still be found and seen all around the city. Originally constructed by Emperor Tiberius in 19 AD and the site of the sacrifice of martyrs in the 2nd century, the Amphitheatre sits on the side of the Fourviere Hill overlooking the city. The Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilisation contains fine examples of artwork, weapons and coins from Lyon's Roman Empire era past.

La Cathedral de Saint Jean

Situated in Vieux Lyon on the bank of the Saone and at the foot of Fourviere, the Cathedral of Saint John was built in the 14th century and is a beautiful example of Romanesque architecture meeting Gothic styling. Highlights of the cathedral include the remarkable Gothic Chapel of the Bourbons and the unique 14th century astronomical clock.

Centre d‘Histoire de la Résistance et de la

Lyon was occupied by the Nazis during WWII and was a centre of the Free French and Resistance movements, and this interesting venue bears testament to the struggles endured by the people of the region throughout that time. Housed in the former offices of the Gestapo and Klaus Barbie, the centre features displays of Resistance equipment such as radios and printing presses and has exhibits depicting the lives and experiences of Resistance members, and is a fascinating insight into the recent history of the city.

Beaujolais and Rhone wines

Just north of Lyon lies Beaujolais, home to the famous light, fruity wine produced annually from Gamay grapes and best enjoyed when the vintage is still young. Each November Lyon hosts a festival celebrating the birth of the new batch and the Rhone Valley boasts a plethora of vineyards where wine lovers can sample to their hearts' content.

Activities

Overview

As the region's name suggests, being located at the heart of Rhone-Alps means that Lyon offers easy access to the numerous ski resorts of the Alps, around a couple of hours' drive away. Many other outdoor activities can be enjoyed in and around the city, including hiking, golf and water sports.

Skiing

Easy access to the spectacular Alps makes Lyon an ideal starting point for ski trips. The famous Chamonix Valley is within easy reach of the city and provides some of the finest skiing in the world with resorts and accommodation to match. Chamonix, Alpe d'Huez and Courchevel are some of the household names beloved of skiers which boast stunning powder slopes, Michelin-starred restaurants and fabulous hotels.

Golf

The spectacular scenery of the Rhone-Alps region provides a fine canvas for some of the best golf courses in France, with over 10 within a 20-mile radius of Lyon. The largest and most reputed is the Golf Club de Lyon, where tree-lined fairways and water hazards sit atop hilly terrain to provide a challenging game. Also worth a look for keen golfer are nearby Club de Valence, Golf de Grenoble Charmeil and Golf de Grenoble Bresson, all also located within easy reach of the city.

Swimming

Though in the heart of the city, the Centre Nautique du Rhône on the banks of the river offers respite from the summer sun and a chance for swimmers to enjoy the two large pools, sun terrace and water slides. Swimming in the Rhone and Saone is not advised.

Football

The Gerland area of the city is home to L'Olympique Lyonnais, the famous local football team and current champions of France. Football enthusiasts can take in a match every other week at le Stade Gerland, or even one of the prestigious European Champions League games.

Tennis

Tennis is a hugely popular pastime throughout France and Lyon boasts a number of fine clubs to enjoy a match. The Saint Rambert Tennis Club is a pretty location with seven outdoor clay courts available and the excellent Tennis Club Ecully is the region's premium, Federation Francais de Tennis accredited venue. Courts are available for all levels of player but need to be booked in advance.

Hiking

For the keen walker the Rhone-Alps region is a fantastic location to indulge their hobby. The hills and valleys of the area make for inspiring walking terrain and fill up the senses while exercising the muscles and working off some of that famous Lyonnais cuisine. The Club Alpin Francais (CAF) is a national institution in France and guides visitors to the best hiking routes for them, whether beginners looking to take in the scenery while stretching their legs or more seasoned and experienced hikers. Find the Lyon branch of CAF in the Presqu'ile part of town.

Shopping

Dining and shopping

Many visitors to Lyon find that they cannot but gain weight during their trip as the cuisine of the region is simply too good to say no to. The wines and foods of the region are manna from heaven to the gastronome and first-class eateries and wine bars abound. Shopping is another favourite pastime of the denizens of Lyon and the city is replete with fashionable boutiques, designer label-filled department stores and malls.

Vieux Lyon hums with the traditional French café culture, where locals and tourists intermingle over coffee or wine at street-side tables. Diners can enjoy typical simple, café-style food on every corner of the narrow lanes, but Lyon is not known as the capital of French gastronomy for nothing. Some of the restaurants in the city are simply stunning.

Lyonnais cuisine takes advantage of the fantastic locally-produced foods available to provide excellent dining all over the city. From the fruits and vegetables of the Rhone Valley to the dairy produce of the farmlands in nearby Bresse and Charolais, the game birds of Dombes to fresh fish from the Savoy Lakes, Lyon is spoilt for choice when it comes to what to put on your table.

Local specialities include quenelles, small rugby ball-shaped mixtures of minced fish or meat and vegetables poached in stock, and cervelle de canuts (literally translating as 'silk workers brains'), hors d'oeuvres made from fresh cheese and spices.

There is fine eating out to suit all budgets in Lyon, from the prix fixe lunchtime menus of the street cafés to the à la carte gourmet splendour of some of France's best restaurants in the evening. Plus, all culinary delights can be washed down with a glass of the region's fantastic wine.

Lyon is also a shopper's paradise, where exclusive designer label boutiques sit alongside large department stores along the picturesque streets and alleys. Rue du President Herriot is home to elegant luxury boutiques including Cartier, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Gucci while the Presqu'ile part of town hosts the two prettiest shopping streets in the city, Rue Victor Hugo and Rue de la Republique, where the city's best mall is situated as well as large department stores including Printemps and Galeries Lafayette.

For art hunters, there is a myriad of art galleries and artists' studios and workshops in the Vieux Lyon part of the city, while antiques dealers can be found on the streets off La Place Bellecour in Presqu'ile.

No visit to France would be complete without a visit to a market or two, and Lyon has some great examples. Each Tuesday to Sunday morning there is a market on Quai Saint Antoine alongside the Saone, and another on Boulevard de la Croix Rousse, both being traditional French farmers' markets selling all types of produce. The covered markets at Les Halles de Lyon offers a different experience, while for the craft lover there is a craft market on Quai Fulchiron every Sunday morning from 08:00.

Restaurants

Lyon is awash with fantastic restaurants and the diner is spoilt for choice. The locals of Lyon, centred as it is at the heart of the Rhone-Alps region, are accustomed to fine cuisine and take it somewhat for granted that they will get it everywhere. All local fare is of course best washed down with a glass of something local, whether your preference is for a cold white or a fruity Beaujolais.

Paul Bocuse, Auberge du Pont de Collonges

40 Rue de la Plage, Collonges au Mont D'Or, Lyon, France : +33 4 7242 90

Home to the famous chef Paul Bocuse, a visit to this stunning three-Michelin-starred restaurant is one of the absolute highlights of a trip to the Rhone region. On Bocuse's sumptuous menu, scallops, foie gras, veal and duck vie for your taste buds' attention with the famous truffle soup V.G.E. dish created for the French President in 1975.

Georges Blanc

Vonnas, Lyon 01540, France +33 4 74 50 90

A short drive outside of Lyon to the village of Vonnas takes one to the 19th century coaching inn that is home to Georges Blanc, a true legend of the Rhone. Blanc can trace his ancestry back to the innkeepers of the French Revolution and his rural French style of cooking attracts visitors from all over the world. The décor is fireplaces and tapestries, the menu features poulet de Bresse, truffles and lobster and the cellar is packed with more than 130,000 bottles of wine. A true treat.

La Nef des Fous

5 Rue du boeuf, Lyon 69005, France +33 4 78 42 73

A charming restaurant in the heart of Vieux Lyon, La Nef des Fous is quiet and atmospheric, a perfect destination for a candlelit dinner for two. Fusion food is on the menu and the budget is value for money. Speciality dishes include red mullet souffle and wild guinea fowl in cinnamon and vanilla sauce while the flambéed scallops in Cognac on ceps risotto is a decadent delight.

Villa Florentine

25-27 Montee Saint-Barthelemy, Lyon 69005, France + 33 4 72 56 56

Set inside the majestic Villa Florentine Hotel and another of Lyon's Michelin-starred eateries, this restaurant serves nouvelle cuisine in a modern environment which contrasts pleasantly with the stately building itself. Langoustines, foie gras and king crab are among the menu's highlights and the restaurant boasts a beautiful view of Fourviere.

Restaurant Pierre Orsi

3 Place Kleber, Lyon 69006, France + 33 4 78 89 57

Sited in an old manor house close to the Tete d'Or park, Pierre Orsi is a relaxing dining experience and house specialities include ravioli of foie gras with truffles and port plus slow roasted pigeon in garlic broth. Excellent wine cellar.

Nicolas Le Bec

14 Rue Grolee, Lyon, France +33 4 78 42 15

Boasting two Michelin stars and a superb range of wines, Nicolas Le Bec offers fantastic food and drink in cosy surroundings. Tucked away on a small street off La Place Bellecour, Le Bec changes its menu on a regular basis to utilise the produce in season. Previous creations include duck foie gras with black figs and roasted crayfish with purple artichokes.

Chez Mounier

3 Rue des Marroniers, Lyon 69002, France +33 4 78 37 79

A fine example of a traditional Lyonnais bouchon restaurant, Chez Mounier offers simple, wholesome food in a relaxed environment. Dried sausages, quenelles and tablier de sapeur (marinated tripe) are among the specialities.

La Tassee

20 Rue de la Charité, France +33 04 72 77 79

Located just off La Place Bellecour, La Tassee's dining room is lined with frescoes painted in 1951, the year the restaurant opened. Simple yet excellent food on offer includes quenelles brochet (pike) with lobster sauce and veal kidneys.

Brasserie l‘Est

14 Place Jules Ferry, Lyon 69006, France +33 4 37 24 25

Another of chef Paul Bocuse's establishments, Brasserie l'Est is located inside the old Part Dieu railway station and even boasts a miniature train running around the restaurant. Food is international and the menu offers up Polonaise borsch, Indian poultry whites, or whole cod roasted Tunisian style.

Le Cazenove

75 Rue Boileau, Lyon 69006, France +33 4 78 89 82

An elegant venue offering good regional cuisine. Perennially popular with locals and tourists alike, the pleasant décor and good service make it a favourite choice.

Transport

Overview

Lyon is easily accessible by a number of different modes of transportation, and the city's Saint Exupery International Airport is located just 20kms away from the centre. The airport services connections to many regional destinations as well as long-distance flights. Located as it is at the heart of France, Lyon is also easy to reach by car or high-speed TGV train.

Airports

Saint Exupery International Airport is situated 20kms to the east of the city and offers regular connections to many main European cities as well as transatlantic flights. The airport is served by airlines including British Airways, BMI, Air France and easyJet. A new high-speed tram link connecting the airport to the city centre is soon to be completed.

The airport has three terminals which are easily travelled between on foot. Facilities available at Saint Exupery include ATM machines, currency exchange services, a business centre and a post office. There are also a number of shops, a department store and many duty-free outlets.

Connecting the airport with the city are regular trains and buses, and Saint Exupery is also connected directly by TGV to Gare de Lyon in Paris. Taxis are readily available at the airport exit and there are many car rental companies located within the airport for those wishing to self-drive.

Public transportation

For those not wishing to fly, Lyon boasts excellent rail connections with many major European cities via the fast and comfortable TGV service. The journey from Paris to Lyon takes just two hours by TGV, while travellers can also arrive from Brussels in under four hours, Geneva in less than two and London, on the Eurostar, in just five hours. Lyon's main railway station is located adjacent to Saint Exupery Airport.

Bus services connecting Lyon to other major French cities are available and while perhaps not as comfortable, they are a much cheaper option to flying or taking the TGV. Buses leave for Lyon from Paris on an hourly basis and services are also available from Marseilles and Nice plus many other main French destinations.

Many visitors to Lyon wishing to get out and see the Rhone-Alps region travel by car, and Lyon's central location means that the city is easily reached from many major European cities. Lyon is just a 1-hour, 30-minute drive from Geneva, three hours from Turin and Marseilles and four hours from Paris.

Once in Lyon, travelling about is a simple process, with many public buses operating and able to transport you between sights and attractions. Taxis are available throughout the city, outside most hotels and restaurants and can be hailed in the street. It is advisable to insist that the driver puts on the meter at the beginning of your journey to avoid getting overcharged.

Map

Quick Search
  • Hotels
  • Travel Guides
loading quick search...
My Profile

Login

for free and get
100 Dizzy Points