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Brno travel guide - Czech Republic

Brno travel guide

In Brno visitors can appreciate a mix of Gothic and Baroque architecture dating back hundreds of years and a list of museums worthy of the second-largest city in the country. However, the Czech Republic's Brno is often overlooked by travellers due to its industrial reputation. While it's true that industry is an important part of the local economy, there are many tourism opportunities here as well.

Brno was founded 1,000 years ago, and many of its ancient sites have hung on to this day. In the old days, a system of ramparts and five gates protected the city from invasion, though the Menin Gate is the only portion remaining. Towering high above is Spilberk Castle, an equally ancient structure. These historic sites set the tone for the old city, which goes on to reveal ancient churches and a stoic town hall that dates to the 13th century.

Next to Prague, Brno has the country's best museums and plenty of culture. The city museum is housed in three locations: Menin Gate, Spilberk Castle and Villa Tugendhat. The latter was named a UNESCO World Heritage site because of its modernist architecture. The Moravian Regional Museum is the country's next largest, but the city's most outstanding cultural collection is its network of catacombs interring the preserved bodies of monks.

Football is a popular sport in Brno, but the real crowds turn out for racing events like the Grand Prix at the Brno Circuit Racing Track. Visitors who'd rather burn calories than watch others do so can walk in the city's parks during the summer or go ice skating and skiing during the winter.

Shoppers are at home in Brno as the city boasts extensive options priced well below those in Prague. Venues ranging from department stores to quirky boutiques are onsite. The dining industry is growing rapidly and offers an ever-growing list of international options but the best fare is still Czech cuisine, featuring rich and hearty dishes and plenty of meat. Local beers are available in practically every restaurant. Excellent hotels in the old city operate in the shadow of Spilberk Castle.

In antiquity, Brno sat at a trade route crossroads so it comes as no surprise that the city continues to function as an important transport hub for Central Europe. Long-haul buses connect locally and abroad, offering the most affordable but time consuming means of getting around. Trains are faster and more comfortable and unload at the Main Railway Station at the edge of the town centre.

Passengers that arrive by air are likely to land in Prague, where the airport serves millions of passengers every year and offers extensive facilities. From here, transportation to Brno can be accomplished by train, bus or domestic flight. The latter connects to a regional airport four miles outside the city centre. This modest facility is served primarily by Czech Airways.

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Sightseeing

Overview

Brno's old town is loaded with cultural and historic attractions that offset the city's reputation as a centre of industry. The Moravian Museum is one of the country's largest and joins the Brno City Museum to offer a fascinating window into local history. Brno's cathedral is exceptionally old, and it's joined by other historic landmarks like Spillberk Castle, Menin Gate and the Old Town Hall. Villa Tugendhat is much younger, but has earned its place on UNESCO's roster of important sites.

Moravian Regional Museum

This museum is housed in Dietrichstein Palace, a 17th century stronghold that was used by the Russians during the Battle of Austerlitz. Inside is an eclectic array of exhibits that explore the art, heritage and history of the Moravian region. There's also a component of natural history at work, with a collection of stuffed mammals and birds that are unique to the region. The Moravian is the Czech Republic's second-largest museum.

Old Town Hall

This is the oldest non-religious building in the city. It dates to the 1200s and continues to serve the city as a centre of culture. Visitors can tour the town hall, taking in relics from the city's history including the Brno Dragon (actually a stuffed alligator), which was donated to the town in the early 17th century. Several other artefacts are on display, each with their own tale. The tower offers spectacular views over the old city.

Menin Gate

One of the most important relics of Brno history, the Menin Gate is the remnant of a five-gate system that once regulated traffic into the city. It has come a long way since the days it was used as a domicile for the city executioner as well as a storeroom for weapons. Today, the gate is used by the Brno City Museum as an exhibition space.

Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady

A sublime work of Gothic architecture, this basilica began as a Cistercian convent that was founded in the early 14th century. Aside from being an architectural triumph, this church is also tied to the advent of modern genetics. When the father of genetics, Johann Gregor Mendel, pieced his theory together, he was staying here in the basilica.

Capuchin Monastery

This monastery is not for the faint of heart, but that doesn't stop crowds of tourists from visiting. A network of catacombs situated directly under the religious structure has been cleverly constructed to stave off decomposition. One hundred monks and a few key players in local history have been entombed here, with their remains visible in open caskets. Most of the bodies still have hair, skin and clothing.

Villa Tugendhat

Another exhibition space for the Brno City Museum, the Villa Tugendhat is also a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its impressive, modernist architectural style. UNESCO status has been a boon to the villa, as locals have invested heavily in its restoration. The interior furnishings and overall design are true to the era in which the villa was built (1920s).

Cathedral

The Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul is one of the region's most fascinating. It sits on a hill and offers visitors pleasant views over the city and surrounding countryside. The church was founded a millennium ago and it has been preserved through a series of restoration and rebuilding campaigns throughout the centuries. The result is an uncanny blend of architectural styles dominated by Gothic and Baroque influences.

Spilberk Castle

This fortress is the third exhibition centre for Brno City Museum. In many ways, it holds the heart of the city as historians assert that there was no settlement prior to the castle's construction. The castle has also played a central role in the city's unfolding history, with foreign armies making this the centrepiece of their invasions. Spilberk's dungeons are a particular draw for tourists, and the museum operates a permanent exhibit called ‘Jail of the Nations'.

Activities

Overview

Organised outdoor activities aren't heavily touted by the local tourism industry though visitors can sign up for adventure sports in the countryside including mountain biking, climbing and skiing. The city itself is a nice place for walks, with plenty of local sites strung along pedestrian avenues. The most popular spectator events are motor sport racing and football.

Racing

The Brno Circuit Racing Track hosts regular high-octane events. Grand Prix Brno is the track's headlining event, but a range of other races are also held here. Throughout the year, visitors can catch events like the World Motorcycle Championship, the FIA Grand Tourismo Championship, the A1 Grand Prix and the Superbike World Championship. These events work together to make Brno's track one of the best in the world.

Skating

Ice skating is a popular sport in Brno, but most of the enthusiasm is generated in local circles. As a result, the majority of Brno's ice skating rinks are only open at weekends and holidays. The most popular local rinks are Hala Rondo, Ice Arena Olympia and the rink in Nové Park (Nové Sady).

Football

Football is the city's most popular spectator sport, and tickets for matches are cheap and easy to come by. The local team is First League FC Brno and home games are a fun and raucous events. Fans of the sport can take a taxi or bus to the stadium, which can also be reached on foot in 20 minutes.

Skiing

The Czech Republic draws winter sport enthusiasts from November to February. There are several ski resorts in this part of the country, the most popular of which is in Krkonoše National Park on the border with Poland. These slopes are situated due north of Brno and can be reached in less than three hours by car. Onsite facilities are comprehensive, and beginners can enrol in skiing or snowboarding classes.

Walking

The old city is perfect for leisurely strolls down through blocks of historic homes and churches. The city's best park is called Denisovy Sady and is an ideal diversion for those who have spent too much time in Brno's industrial quarter. For a slight challenge, consider the uphill climb along Biskupska Avenue, which hosts a charming collection of medieval houses and ultimately leads to Spilberk Castle.

Fitness centres

Anyone seeking an intensive workout should check out one of the local fitness centres. Most of these facilities offer short-term passes for guests and include exercise equipment, tennis courts and swimming pools. A few of the most prominent fitness centres in Brno are Fitness Centrum, Body Group, Big One Fitness and Star Trac Health Club.

Shopping

Dining and shopping

Brno may not have as many dining and shopping outlets as Prague, but there are plenty of venues of interest to tourists. Dining begins with rich and hearty European fare and goes on to include a growing number of international options. Shoppers will find department stores, boutiques and antique dealers throughout the metropolitan area.

Brno's dining scene is running a few years behind Prague's, the latter which has undergone a culinary renaissance. But as tourists continue to arrive in increasing numbers, Brno has begun to embrace the industry with better food hygiene and a greater selection of international restaurants.

Quaint restaurants and pubs are located in neighbourhoods throughout the old city and even in the suburbs. Starobrno is the local drink of choice, a tasty pilsner beer. The best and freshest fare in any given restaurant will be presented on a special daily menu. These dishes incorporate fresh, seasonal ingredients and are usually inexpensive.

A few international establishments have sprung up, most of them in conjunction with the largest hotels in Brno. But Czech food remains the most sought-after commodity. Local dishes are rich, hearty and lightly spiced. Meat is ubiquitous and provides most of the flavour. The Czech culinary tradition borrows heavily from neighbouring countries so it's not uncommon to find schnitzels, dumplings and hearty goulashes like those served in Germany and Hungary.

The Czech Republic is the birthplace of pilsner beer. Freshly brewed beers from the region pair nicely with local dishes. Sweets are also another local obsession. Visitors can enjoy palacinka (a crêpe-like dessert) and ovocne knedliky (a dumpling with fruit filling).

The city has a great selection of shopping opportunities. As the Czech Republic's second city, Brno has its fair share of large-scale shopping centres and department stores but there are just as many boutiques and privately-owned shops in the old city. Brno's prices are consistently lower than Prague's.

The most picturesque place to begin a shopping tour is in the pretty district between Svobody Street and the main train station. This area is set aside for pedestrians and boasts plenty of atmosphere. Vaňkovka Gallery is the most popular shopping mall in the city centre. Larger malls are found in the suburbs, and most are included on the public bus network.

A range of antique shops and corner markets are tucked into the medieval alleyways of the old city. Popular purchases in the local boutiques and speciality shops include porcelain and Bohemian crystal. Be advised that antiques are protected by the government and are often barred from export but a reputable dealer can arrange an export license for you.

Restaurants

First-time visitors have a tendency to judge Brno by its industrial neighbourhoods, but there's actually a splendid assortment of restaurants, pubs and cafés in the city centre. Czech cuisine is ubiquitous, but travellers looking for a change of pace will find plenty of Italian restaurants including several pizzerias. Prices are low by international standards so everyone can afford to eat out.

Kino Art Bar

Cihlarska 19, Brno, Czech Republic +420 541 212 79

This ‘art bar' is more of a bohemian café that has a well-deserved reputation. The owner caters to the age of the modern traveller with free wireless internet for guests.

Zahradní Restaurace Le Grand

Benesova 18, Brno, Czech Republic +420 542 518 11

Zahrandní means ‘garden', the perfect word to describe this beautiful restaurant. Fountains and delicate plots of flowers and greenery set the stage for this tasteful restaurant. Prices aren't nearly as high as expected.

U Královny Elisky

Mandlovo 1, Brno, Czech Republic +420 543 212 57

This atmospheric restaurant is tucked into the refurbished stable rooms of the old castle. Live traditional music is played by a wandering troupe of musicians, and the menu features the entire gamut of regional cuisine.

Brabander

Pekarska 4, Brno, Czech Republic +420 543 215 25

This is one of the finest restaurants in town, boasting traditional décor with a hint of modernity. Attentive staff serve thoughtful Czech cuisine.

La Braseria

Pekarská 80, Brno, Czech Republic +420 543 232 04

Arguably the best Italian restaurant in Brno, La Braseria offers a pleasing selection of authentic fare. This is the perfect venue for anyone who is craving the spices that are often missing in Czech cuisine.

Pizza Zakki

Antoniska 570/30, Brno, Czech Republic +420 549 257 20

Travellers craving a pizza need look no further. Pizza Zakki is a small establishment serving pizzas and pasta at affordable prices.

Blue Star

Silingrovo 7, Brno, Czech Republic +420 542 215 29

Blue serves authentic regional cuisine at affordable prices. Assorted grilled meats are the perennial favourites. Look for this restaurant after hours, when others have closed.

Spolek

Orli 22, Brno, Czech Republic +420 774 814 23

This laid-back café is quiet and comfortable and serves a mix of local and Italian cuisine. This is the perfect place to read a book, and there's even a bookstore on the second level.

Pivnice Hotel Pegas

Jakubská 4, Brno, Czech Republic +420 5 42 210 1

Laid back and delightfully local, the Pegas is a pub that serves rich and satisfying local fare. A variety of Czech beers are on draft.

Stopkova Plzenská Pivnice

Ceská 5, Brno, Czech Republic +420 542 211 09

Another atmospheric pub, this one boasts rustic furnishings like wooden benches. The pub fare has a local stamp, focusing on hearty goulashes and sausages.

Transport

Overview

Brno is a regional transportation hub that sits along important thoroughfares and railways serving the whole of Europe. Air passengers are likely to land in Prague before connecting to Brno, but there is a small airport in the city that offers a few direct charter flights. Public transportation in the city consists of buses, trams and taxis. A hire car is convenient, and the city can be approached via the D1/D2 motorway.

Airports

Brno is served by a small regional airport with connections to Prague onboard Czech Airways. A limited selection of connections across the continent is available, mainly through low-cost carriers like Ryanair and Cirrus Airlines. Few tourists fly directly to Brno, but those that do can enjoy the airport's convenient location a mere four miles from the city centre. Buses and taxis run from here to the old city.

Passengers are much more likely to fly into Prague Ruzyne Airport (PRG) before completing an overland connection to Brno. This is a large, four-terminal facility that handles a large share of Central Europe's travel by air. This facility serves 10 million passengers every year and is frequented by carriers including British Airways, Air France, Lufthansa, Czech Airlines, Alitalia and SN Brussels Airlines.

Facilities are comprehensive, especially in the North Terminal where international passengers alight. Shopping options include duty-free outlets, chemists, newsagents and boutiques. A range of dining options is available, including several bars and coffee shops. The airport is also outfitted with ample banking, post and business facilities including a conference centre.

From Prague, transportation to Brno can be completed by a regional flight or more often via train or bus. Brno is roughly 120 miles from Prague, and overland transport takes around 3 hours to complete. Prague's main transportation terminals are Florenc Bus Station and the Main Railway Station, both of which offer direct service to Brno. Visitors can also hire a car in Prague and drive to Brno via the D1/D2 motorway.

Public transportation

Brno is an important transportation hub for the Czech Republic, with plenty of public transportation infrastructure. Coaches are the cheapest long-haul option, connecting to distant corners of the continent. It's possible to book direct service from as far away as London, with the total travel time taking around 30 hours. Most bus passengers arrive from regional cities in the Czech Republic or from neighbouring countries.

It's much more comfortable to travel by train. Most of Brno's trains connect through Prague, a journey that takes around 3 hours, 30 minutes. But Brno is conveniently situated on Central Europe's north-south railway, with connections possible to a range of regional cities along this axis.

Transportation within the city itself is less of an issue. The old city is mainly a pedestrian area, with most major attractions within convenient walking distance of one another. Taxis are on hand but expensive and a round of bargaining is expected before boarding.

A network of trams and buses are on hand for transportation between Brno's neighbourhoods. These are useful for reaching destinations outside of the old city and primarily serve commuters travelling to and from the suburbs. Tickets can be bought from newsstands, hotels and convenience stores. They're sold in blocks of time ranging from 40 minutes to several days.

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