Havana is embraced as one of the world's rawest tourism destinations. You won't find the glossy finish seen at other UNESCO World Heritage sites that have been seized by the tourism industry. Here majestic colonial architecture rises over roads where classic cars from the 1950s continue to run.
Whether relaxing on the beach, dining in a classy restaurant or watching some of the world's most talented baseball players in their element, Havana's visitors are well looked after.
Havana's historic core, Habana Vieja, is overflowing with restored colonial-era homes and churches. The most prominent feature is Morro Castle, with its ramparts and antique weapons on display. The other major landmark is Cathedral Square, with its grand Baroque church and bell tower. A tour of the heritage, culture and history behind these structures can enjoyed at the City Museum.
Other famous sites include the Cementerio de Colón with its more than 130 acres of crypts and mausoleums. For a livelier stroll, take to the waterfront Malecón, where locals and tourists alike gather for walks, fishing or a bite to eat. The Partagas Cigar Factory, where some of the world's finest cigars are hand-rolled, is another fascinating place to stop.
Havana isn't known for its activities scene, but tourists will plenty of ways to get out and enjoy the environment. Lenin Park is nice for jogging and cycling, while scuba diving and swimming are possible at nearby beaches. Tourists can charter fishing boats or stay in town to catch one of Havana's famous baseball games.
There are two economies (and two currencies) at work in Cuba: one for tourists (CUC) and another for locals (CUP). Tourists will find that nicer restaurants, hotels and shops only accept CUC and charge much higher prices than their counterparts. Nonetheless, there are excellent options in every category. The two most popular souvenirs are rum and cigars.
The city's finest hotels are situated in Vedado, Miramar and the historic core, Habana Vieja. Visitors lodged in any of these neighbourhoods enjoy easy access to the most popular sites and museums. In the evening, these areas become lively entertainment districts.
Cuba's major gate of entry is Jose Marti International Airport in Havana. It connects millions of passengers to destinations around the world, with the exception of the US. As the island is cut off from the US mainland, there is little more than scant ferry and cruise service entering Havana's port.
Travel by train was once a thriving industry on the island though service has been drastically reduced in recent years. A tourist train connects to other island destinations, while buses are valuable for off-rail journeys. Within Havana, tourists can choose from brand-new city buses, vintage taxis, three-wheeled coco taxis or a hire car.
Havana is a vibrant city of history and culture, and the historic quarter is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. From the Malecón walkway to the bustling market on Callejón de Hammel, there are plenty of opportunities for people watching. History buffs will appreciate the Baroque, colonial architecture, stoic churches and impressive forts. In between sightseeing tours, visits to the local museums and cigar factories are popular activities.
‘El Morro' sits at the heart of Parque Histórico Morro y Cabaña, a park full of ramparts and historic forts. The castle is a museum today, with each of its rooms displaying period weapons, furnishings and other artefacts, many of which date to the castle's 16th century construction. There are several other worthwhile attractions in the park, including a lighthouse from the 1800s and a series of other castles and forts. The park can be reached via a tunnel under the harbour.
Cathedral Square is one of Havana's most beautiful neighbourhoods, laid out in immaculately-restored colonial buildings. The centrepiece is the Catedral de San Cristobal, a Baroque masterpiece that is still a functioning church. In the evening, the bell tower is bathed in floodlights, making this a popular after-hours meeting place.
The Cementerio de Colón spans more than 130 acres. Christopher Columbus' remains were interred here for a time though they've long since been transported to Spain. The crypts and mausoleums are arrayed around a central chapel, and the most prominent grave is called La Milagrosa. The woman in this tomb is revered as the matron guardian of infants and pregnant women.
Havana's pedestrian thoroughfare follows the coastline for more than four miles. This is the ideal perch for people-watchers, as locals and tourists gather here from dawn until the late night hours. The best way to see Malecón is by horse-drawn carriage, but beware the breaking surf on days when the water is particularly rough.
The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes holds the island's most comprehensive collection of Cuban art. Cuban masters including Amelia Pelaez, Rene Portocarrero and Wifredo Lam are featured heavily, backed by a sprinkling of artwork by artists from across Latin America. Wandering the convoluted halls of this three-storey museum can be a challenge so visitors are encouraged to allow themselves plenty of time.
This colourful alley is short and full of culture. Artist Salvador González painted a series of murals here that depict deities from indigenous Cuban and African religions. The open-air marketplace here deals in an eclectic mix of food and merchandise, and the entire area is dotted with creative sculptures formed from alternative media like recycled spare parts. Live, local music plays at weekends.
The Museo de la Ciudad is housed in an 18th century Baroque building that once kept the seat of the local government. The interior architecture is grandiose, with gleaming marble floors and a regal throne room for visiting Spanish royals. Exhibits focus on relics and regalia of the colonial period.
Cuba is synonymous with high-quality cigars, and many consider Partagas to be the island's best. This factory opened in the mid-19th century, and the tradition of hand-crafting each cigar continues to this day. Join a guided tour to see employees using the same tools and methods that were used in the 1800s. This is a must-see even for non-smokers.
Warm weather and plenty of sunshine set the stage for Cuba's outdoor activity scene. The infrastructure that goes hand-in-hand with the tourism industry is prominently missing here, though this can be charming for independent visitors. It's possible to book scuba diving excursions, fishing expeditions and daytrips to outlying beaches, while those staying close to town can enjoy baseball games, jogging in Lenin Park or simply cruising the streets of Havana in a vintage 1950s car.
A quintessential Cuban activity involves hiring a vintage car and cruising the downtown district. Many of the island's vehicles hail from the 1950s and operate as un-metered taxis though transportation is usually secondary to the journey itself. Cars can be hired by the hour and accommodate up to four passengers.
The most popular green space for joggers is Lenin Park, where paved roads and forested trails stretch for several miles. The park isn't in the immediate downtown area so transportation is important. At the heart of the city centre, Malecón is an excellent place for exercise, especially in the morning or evening when the sun isn't too strong. Cyclists will find excellent roads, but few bike hire shops.
This is Havana's most idyllic beach, situated far enough out of town that you'll have to arrange transportation. Anyone in search of the perfect day at the beach can book catered daytrips through local tour operators or hire a car and visit on your own. In the downtown area, Playas del Este or the beach outside of Club Habana are also open to visitors.
Cubans love to play baseball, and they've been at it as long as the Americans. Unfortunately for the little island, the most talented players are often lured away by bigger franchise teams in the US. Even amateur players here are unusually talented. Visitors can catch games throughout the regular season (November to March). The championship usually falls in May, and tickets just cost a few pesos.
Sport fishing is a longstanding Cuban pursuit, and today's tourists can follow in the footsteps of Ernest Hemmingway and cast a line of their own. Outfitters are fully prepared to take tourists on chartered outings lasting from a few hours to all day. Just visit the Marina Tarara and inquire with any of the fishing boats at anchor.
Scuba divers have plenty of cause to visit Cuba though the best sites are outside of Havana. A few tour operators, especially those that have offices in seafront hotels, can arrange diving trips of varying lengths. PADI certification courses are offered for beginners, and diving excursions are completely catered with lunches, guides and all necessary equipment.
Cuba's economy is skewed with two currencies at work. Tourists are quoted prices in Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC), while locals buy and sell with the Cuban Peso (CUP). Tourists can get away with using regular pesos with street vendors, but sanctioned tourist establishments (both shops and restaurants) only accept CUC. In the latter case, all of the prices are inflated to European and North American standards.
Havana's dining scene operates on two tiers. There are government-run restaurants that target tourists and charge inflated prices as well as street vendors who cater for locals with treats that only cost a few pesos. In between, tourists will find a few private establishments facing down the government monopolies. While fine dining isn't Havana's strong suit, tourists can still find excellent fare in all three of these categories.
The most important thing to remember is that high prices don't automatically translate into memorable dining. Each of the five-star hotels offer upscale restaurants, some of which are truly worth splurging for. It's a good idea to ask around before taking a seat in an upmarket establishment, however.
For a private restaurant to prosper, it has to maintain a reputation despite the strict government controls. Called paladares, these establishments are permitted merely a dozen seats and may only employ family members. To succeed, it has to be remarkable in some way. As a result, the longstanding paladares are often the best restaurants in Havana.
Local cuisine is often referred to as criolla, an overarching term that was used to describe ethnic Spaniards born on Cuban soil. Criolla cuisine is distinctly Caribbean, mixing culinary traditions from the indigenous cultures, Africa and Spain. Local specialities include rich omelettes stuffed with cheese and sausage, roast pig and black bean soup.
Havana is the exception to Cuba's otherwise subdued shopping scene. Handicraft markets like the one on Calle Tacón have grown with the tourism industry, and visitors can find a variety of well-made products across the city. Wood carvings and paintings are especially popular but are likely to need a certificate of export to be carried out of the country. It's best to purchase from authorised dealers who can provide all of the paperwork.
Cuban cigars are famous around the world and can be purchased anywhere in Havana. Connoisseurs are advised to bypass the street vendors, who often sell low-quality imitations, and head to official cigar factories. Tourists may leave the country with 50 cigars though even more may be exported if purchased from authorised dealers.
Rum is another hallmark of Cuban commerce. Prices are higher than expected, but the quality justifies the expense in most cases. After sipping mojitos at a beachside restaurant, visitors are eager to take a bottle home with them.
Finally, a holiday in Havana involves listening to plenty of salsa, mambo and folk music. CDs from Cuba are exported worldwide, but the best selection is found here on the island. Again, the quality of the recording is variable in all but the government-sanctioned establishments.
Cuba's dining scene is crowded with government-run operations, but Havana is the exception with plenty of privately-owned operations. There are several restrictions in place, making it hard for private restaurants to compete with the government-sanctioned variety. With this in mind, some of the more dedicated restaurant owners have risen above and founded a handful of outstanding establishments. Prices are usually affordable though diners are advised to scan the bill as unscrupulous charges are sometimes added without cause.
The menu here is truly diverse, with everything from frog legs to delicate truffle sauces. The atmosphere is lightly sophisticated, and the doors are open 24 hours a day.
La Terraza is famous as one of Hemmingway's favourite haunts, and to this day it teems with devotees of the iconic writer. In keeping with Hemmingway's tastes, fresh seafood is the house speciality.
El Aljibe gives off a rustic ambience, but at its heart it is an efficient part of the local tourist circuit. Dinners are served family style and in large communal portions that are refillable on command. This restaurant is popular for good reason.
Situated on the waterfront, this restaurant is backed by the Ministry of Fisheries, which guarantees the freshness and qualify of the seafood. The best views over the ocean are available on the third floor.
This lively establishment is open until midnight and overflows with charming (sometimes raucous) local energy. The cuisine is purely local, and diners turn out in droves. Needless to say, reservations are important.
Situated in the Hotel Sevilla, this is one of the city's finest dining establishments. The creative dishes served here are carefully crafted and truly original.
The Cuban cuisine in this restaurant has a distinct French twist. A pleasing selection of European wines is available as well.
The outdoor garden at La Cocina is especially popular, and after it's full the indoor seating goes quickly. The menu features fresh seafood prepared according to local recipes.
A range of grilled meats are available here, but the real draw card is the selection of beers that are brewed onsite. As Havana's only brewery, this restaurant commands a strong and enthusiastic following.
As the name suggests, this Spanish restaurant specialises in paella. The menu features a range of permutations of the Iberian dish but the best feature fresh, local seafood.
Havana's international airport offers the only viable gateway to Cuba. As relations with the US are non-existent, most international flights are bound for distant cities. On the island, it's possible to arrive in the nation's capital by train or bus from other Cuban cities. Taxis, hire cars and three-wheeled coco taxis cart tourists between major sightseeing districts. The city centre is compact enough to get around on foot.
Jose Marti International Airport is Cuba's main gateway and offers direct flights to most major international city aside from those in the US. Cubana is the national carrier and offers the greatest selection of flights. A handful of international airlines like Iberia and British Airways also fly into Havana.
Jose Marti International serves millions of passengers annually. Of the three terminals, Terminal 3 is the most modern and handles all regularly scheduled international flights. Terminal 2 operates select charter flights to the US that are only available to pre-approved passengers (usually humanitarian aid workers, government officials and journalists). Terminal 1 is set aside for domestic flights.
Facilities in the international terminal are relatively modern and include internet kiosks, currency exchange desks, a bank and a post office. Restaurants, bars and shops are also found onsite.
The airport is located 10 miles south of the city centre. Taxis queue outside the Arrivals hall to take passengers into Havana, and prices vary considerably. Tourists aren't permitted the luxury of shopping around and are simply assigned to the next available vehicle. A hire car is more reliable and can also be arranged in the Arrivals hall.
The only way onto the island is by air, and there are no ferries crossing from other islands in the Caribbean. It's theoretically possible to charter a yacht and sail to Cuba though acquiring permission to dock can be tedious.
Trains arrive in Havana from other cities on the island. There was a time when travel by train was widely available though deteriorating rail conditions have slowed things down. The tourist train is well-maintained and offers comfortable transportation to other cities. Departures occur several times per week but not everyday so it's wise to plan well in advance. The electric train to Matanzas is the exception, departing several times daily.
Buses operated by Viazul travel between Havana and most other cities on the island. The terminal is just over a mile south of the city centre. Havana is the island's transportation hub, and the combined bus and train networks connect to every major destination.
Taxis are the main mode of getting around Havana. Some are newer Russian models though the classiest cabs are classic 1950s cars from the US. Tourists are technically not allowed to ride in vintage taxis though it remains a common practice. Be sure to negotiate the fare ahead of time. Three-wheeled coco taxis are less expensive.
Brand new city buses (imported from China in 2008) ply the streets of Havana. This is how locals get around so crowds are common. Hiring car is another option for visitors.